What a seriously weird place this is. Any city that is
invented for the sake of moving the capital is going to be a bit odd, but we
seem to have chosen timing such that it is particularly so. Made the capital in
1997, it has only been in the last five or so years that President Nazarbayev
has pumped a considerable proportion of state funds into building the sky
scrapers, domes and futuristic towers of the new town. As with a lot of these
sorts of invented places (Docklands in Melbourne came to mind straight away)
the whole place feels a bit like a ghost town from the future.
The apartment block we are staying in is obviously very new,
but when you enter the building there are holes in the walls, wires lying
around, missing tiles and bits of plaster, and it’s hard to tell whether it’s
been left to ruin or hasn’t yet been finished. Our apartment itself is along
the same lines, fitting in well with most of the city.
The complex of Embassies was very peculiar. It was a square
of land, laid out with a grid of roads and split into quarter acre blocks. Each
Embassy had a quarter acre block and was built in the style of a suburban
family home, a neat flowerbed lining the modest driveway leading to the front
door. The respective countries’ flags flying over the front porches were the
only sign that this wasn’t a contrived sim city type housing complex.
Astana’s not an overly exciting place to spend a lot of time
in. Other than gawking at the ridiculousness of the buildings, and a visit to
the very impressive President’s Museum showcasing all the gifts and awards
bequeathed to him by other foreign leaders, there isn’t really a whole lot to
do.
Denner did manage to get himself a much needed whole new
wardrobe though. We were pretty happy to find that our apartment came with a
washing machine, and keen to clean his three pieces of clothing Denner jumped
straight in. A few hours later he pulled his clean clothes out and caused much
hilarity when we discovered that his almost entirely white/bone/beige wardrobe
was now a very attractive baby blue colour. Confused by the Cyrillic script and
unable to decipher the icons for temperature and time, he had inadvertently set
the machine to 90 degrees Celsius and his navy blue sleeping sheet had bled all
over everything else. For most people this would be quite a frustrating event,
for some devastating; but for Denner it was a much needed change and a major
improvement on most items.
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